WE M14 nozzle mod
The WE M14 has an inherent flaw in it's nozzle design, both in the original WE nozzle and the Ra-Tech aluminium one. The nozzle loading arm front end is angled upwards to help the BB feed into the hop up chamber, but the shorter top end is retracted under the nozzle tip front. This creates a space where a BB can get randomly trapped between the nozzle tip, the nozzle loading arm an the feeding ramp.
We have tried several feeding geometries for our CNC lips in order to eliminate this issure, but we concluded that the nozzle loading arm shall be modified. Adding 1-2 millimeter to the front of the loading arm makes the issue go away. The nozzle loading arm feels the impacts of the BB feeding every gun cycle, so the added material shall be well adhered.
There are several ways to reach this goal, so here is the procedure we followed:
1- Drill a small hole (1.6mm in diameter in our case), parallel to the axis of the nozzle, in the front center of the loading arm. Since the front is not square to the hole, is better to grab the nozzle on a vise and use a drill press to make it.
2- Tap a M2 thread on the hole. This small taps are really easy to snap, be carefull.

3- Thread the screw to the botom so it's held secure.

4- Degrease the area and place a blob of metal filled epoxy mixture (like J-B Weld) around it. Let it cure.

Tips on degreasing:
-Soap and water: basic, cheap and everywhere. Hot water recomended.
-Alcohol, either ethanol or isopopyl: more advanced, disolves many greases but still not too powerfull.
-Acetone: powerfull degreaser, can attack many plastics so use with caution, dries too fast sometimes.
-Brake cleaner: this stuff is magic, evaporates slower than acetone so it acts more time on the surfaces. Can still attack some plastics but on my experience is less aggressive than acetone.
5- Shape the epoxy blob. With a small abrasive wheel on a rotary tool cut the screw to size. Slowly grind away the epoxy, don't apply excesive force to avoid unglueing it.

With this final shape, the BB will roll up through the feeding ramp without being caught anywhere.
Of course there are more ways to peform this mod. The screw and the thread can be replaced with a straight smooth pin, although the epoxy won't hold as well on there. For those who don not want to drill their nozzle loading arm at first, they could just glue the blob of epoxy in the front and test durability. Keep in mind that plastics usually glue pretty poorly, so on this way the aluminium nozzle is recomended. The original nozzle is probably made of ABS plastic, so adding material melting onto or chemically with acetone is an option. There are specific glues for plastics that could work too.
The ultimate way to do this mod on the aluminium nozzle is to add the material with TIG welding. But welding aluminium requires high skills, so I would let this way for a proffesional.